Four months later....

OK, so it's March and we haven't posted anything since November.
A few things have happened since then....

• Moved house - twice, now in Sapper Way with a fantastic view of the ocean and what looks like (but isn't) the curvature of the earth
• Played guitar in a fantastic worship group band at the Baptist Church (With Gareth And Johnnie, half of the band "The Big Easy").
• Salvation Army Christmas Band performances across the island.
• The festival of lights - parade through town, projected images on the court house wall.
• Lucy organised Christmas presents for disadvantaged children on the island.
• Toby in the Panto - Snow White - he was one of the Three Stooges, the Queen's henchmen.
• Played Guitar with my Headteacher and a student in the School Christmas Music Concert!
• Whale Sharks arrived in the waters around the island - swam with 35 of them at one time, apparently a world record sighting of Whale Sharks all in one place. Brilliant, Terrifying, Awesome, Majestic - running out of superlatives - videos on YouTube - search for Andy Day Whale Shark.
• Lawrence has bought a fishing rod - unfortunately we're both useless at fishing and haven't caught anything yet, could be partly to do with using frozen bait?!
• We've all Started SCUBA training, nearly there now - one dive to go to be qualified.
• Working with great kids at school - particularly the year 12s & 13s.
• Swam with two turtles, one swam straight up to me - his jaw looked powerful so I refrained from putting my hand out!
• Toby now jumps off a 5m wall into the sea, and off the cliffs too !!!
• Lawrence & Toby are now both swimming like fish, they spend most days at the open air pool or swimming off the wharf.
• Running the Wednesday night bible studies.
• Am now the proud owner of a black & chrome pick-up truck.
• Lucy has been driving around in a 1976 MG Midget, although she actually hates driving it, so now I'm having a turn.
• We're buying a boat in a couple of weeks (going thirds with 2 other friends)
• Lawrence, Toby & I took part in the Commonwealth Baton Relay, got to hold the baton which the Queen will open and read in Glasgow at the Commonwealth Games later this year.
• Lawrence just played in his first cricket tournament between the three primary schools.
• Toby has just auditioned for the school musical "We Will Rock You" - he's going to play the part of "Pop".
• Booked our leave for this summer (St Helena's winter), we will arrive back in the UK on 17th July, and go back to St Helena on 18th August.

...probably missed out loads of stuff, but I'm going to publish this anyway, or I'll never get around to it.

Will try to keep this more updated from now on....

Andy (Charlie)

The great cucumber drought (and fresh fruit famine)

(Lucy)

We discovered ( by chatting to a guy at Ann's Place, a local cafe that stays open late and will offer a burger when out for an evening wander with the boys....guess which parent?!) that there was a whale watching trip arranged for the weekend.  We secured our places, told a few friends and hoped the wind would die down!  Sunday emerged calm and bright.  Lawrence decided at the last minute that he didn't want to go, so just Toby and I set out.  We were friendly with another four families and recognised many others on the boat.  It wasn't long before we found a pod of pan tropical dolphins, who entertained us with their speed and agility through the water.  It often appeared as though we were going to crush them with the front of the boat as they swam so close to us.  We also saw many of the larger bottle nosed dolphins, but no whales.  Apparently around this time last year there were around 12 humpback whales in the bay, so it may be worth trying again on the next trip nearer the end of the month.  Dolphin trips happen fairly regularly, it just takes someone to organise a boat and put the word out, so that the cost of boat hire can be shared out.  Lawrence made it on the next even bumpier trip, when again we saw hundreds of dolphins...but no whales. 

Andy has now practiced and played with the Salvation Army a few times, and has really enjoyed the company at the Wednesday night bible study group.  Every other Sunday they have a praise and worship service.  Most recently this was held in Sandy Bay.  The nearest to a beach that the island has to offer, though it's black and the currents so strong that we've been advised by a few people to never go much deeper than your knees.  The practice before the service was accompanied by food, and with plenty of tea and cake afterwards.  Toby was in his element!  Cakes and baking seem to have a high profile on the island, so my ongoing quest to loose a few pounds could be severely hampered if I'm not careful! 

I've enjoyed two visits to Plantation House (The Governors residence). The first was for a coffee morning with his wife and a handful of newly arrived ex pat ladies, where we had tea & cake on the patio enjoying the elegant surroundings.  The second visit was a much larger affair and was a fund raiser for the local animal charity.  The last night of the proms, St Helena style.  The first half of the evening was made up of local musicians playing piano, bagpipes, cello, harp, singing etc.  then an interval with wine, nibbles & polite conversation. The second half we all watched the classics from the Last Night of the Proms projected onto the wall, song sheets in one hand, Union Jack in the other.  I've never felt so patriotic, for which I kept apologising for to my new Swedish friend who must have wondered what was going on.  Anyway a good night was had!

So, haven't seen a cucumber for several weeks now, and just realised after looking at the RMS timetable that the boat will not arrive here from Cape Town until the 11th December (over a month from time of writing)!  This is because the boat is doing a rare visit to Tristan da Cunha.  Nice for them, but the thought of little or no fresh fruit for a while doesn't feel too great to me!  We've got five apples, three lemons, one orange left....then I begin the hunt for tinned fruit in juice.  Most tinned fruit is in syrup so I must panic buy all I can find!  Maybe more local fruit will be available....ever the optimist! 

Obesity and type two diabetics are big problems on the island, shops generally sell things in  full sugar and it's rare to find a diet coke to buy,  and you haven't got a hope of finding it in any of the large range of imported fizzy & very very colourful drinks.  I did actually find a two litre bottle of diet Pepsi the other day, next to a bottle with 50% free....for twice the cost! 

So, the toothpaste situation, does sound a little unnecessary, BUT we do have a fussy 10 year old who is reluctant to clean his teeth at the best of times, but even more so if we don't have his favourite toothpaste on hand!  The 60+ toilet rolls also felt a bit excessive, but we are working our way through them!  Toilet paper is also very expensive here, often 1ply and can be bought one roll at a time!  Should be fine for marmite though, think we have about 7 jars! And may I just mention we're already about half way through the pasta!

What Andy's last blog didn't mention about our container arriving, is how it made our small house feel positively claustrophobic.  We have unpacked all the boxes, and then repacked and labeled  at least 10, just because we don't have space (and we know we were looking to move).  The availability of  properties (many empty, but for a variety of reasons  the Saints don't have the same impetus to rent them out)  is virtually non existent, and after many dead ends, we had a call from the leader of the Salvation Army to say she knew of a house available in Sapper Way.  I've never been good at waiting, so it's been difficult to wait the three weeks before we can view it, as the current tenants are 'off island'. And the wait until we can actually move in in late January will feel like an eternity!  Anyway a few drive pasts and a cheeky nose through the windows, shows that it looks promising.  Great location, not too far from Jamestown ( for a small,island you'd be surprised how long it can take to drive to certain areas due to the twisty roads etc), nice climate (other areas on the island can spend the winter months in cloud and rain, to the point that you need heaters in the wardrobes to prevent clothes from going mouldy), and close to some very good friends of ours.  Photos to follow! Oh I forgot to mention the incredible sea view!!

 

I feel as though I have lots to write, but I'll try to keep it brief....

The gold internet package has been upgraded to 'double gold', but we still go over!  Lawrence has finally joined the cubs, after much persuasion.  Loves it, like we knew he would! And is most excited to be in the remembrance day parade.  (He panicked at the last moment and didn't do it...maybe next year).

Toby has twice weekly rehearsals for his role of Curly. One of the comedy baddy stooges in the pantomime.

  I continue to go to my Thursday night craft group, that hasn't actually done any craft yet, just chat and drink....exciting plans for next week though!  

Andy played in a gospel event at the Baptist church recently, that even had drums!  It was actually very very good, with lots of the modern worship songs I love.  We're hoping it will become like Strictly Worship (http://www.peasedownmethodist.org/index.php/worship), though it wouldn't have been a true Saint event without the husband and wife duo singing country & western carols accompanied by an electric ukulele!

Finally finished the theory element for scuba diving...a lot to take in, especially for Lawrence.  Dives in the pool next.  

Beginning to mentally plan our next 'semi-fast' for lent.  A long way off I know, but I may need to import some staple foods such as soya milk.  Last year was a challenge, but I did feel great....this year will be a 'real' challenge.  Hoping it will be a good time of year for fresh fruit though! http://www.daniel-fast.com/aboutthefast/

The weather is improving weekly, the pool is warming up & life is good!  Oh and a new garden coffee shop opened!  Photos below of my current favourite haunt....good for a Friday night BBQ and cooked breakfasts...keeping to our routine first Saturday of the month treat ( but twice the price of our church one.....Beryl and team, we miss you!) x

Movember has reached the island, but with a one off sign up fee in lieu of sponsorship.  They're even planning to get together to check on progress.  Obviously in a bar for what I like to call their support group!  

Christmas decorations are up in some shops, all the usual, though twice the price chocolate, sweets etc are out on the shelves.  Must confess we've succumbed to the early Christmas shopping, as I noticed the stock going down quite quickly, and once it's gone....it's gone!  Couldn't quite bring myself to pay £13 for one of the large round tins of choccies though. 

 

For the lovely ladies in my office I do apologise, because there are many more photos on Facebook!!  perhaps a visiting colleague could show them to you.....sorry!

Giant Centipedes, toothpaste and 4x4s

(Andy)
The RMS arrived this month with all our stuff on it, birthday pressies from last month, the rest of our clothes, toys and cricket kit, plus loads of food, too much in fact, I'm sure we won't get through it all in 2 years.  But toothpaste.........it wasn't until we opened up the toiletries, that we discovered just how much toothpaste Lucy bought back in the UK - I've actually lost count, but it's definitely in double figures! (Smiley Face).  If we'd have known that you can buy pretty much everything you'd need out here, we wouldn't have brought half the stuff.

It was when putting away the mountains of food, that I felt a prickly sensation between my toes, a bit like standing on a dried thistle, so, without looking down, I simply tried to shake off the offending vegetation, only to discover that I couldn't shake it off.....so I looked down....to see a 4inch long yellow and black giant centipede attached to my toe.

Now, I like to think of myself as a bit of a nature lover, for example, rather that kill spiders, I prefer to "relocate" them, far away from Lucy and the boys, however, at this point my survival instinct took over, and using a 3kg bag of value pasta* - not my weapon of choice, but the item of food in my hand that I was in the process of filing under "will probably never get through before we leave" - bludgeoned the endangered, endemic beastie to within an inch of his life.  (note: I consider him to be male, as my sense of guilt would be greater should I think of such aggression towards a female).

My toe hurt a little, a bit like a stinging nettle sting for a couple of hours, and even now, two weeks on, although it doesn't hurt, I've still got two unhealed puncture wounds!  Anyway, for all you animal lovers out there, I didn't kill it, it was just stunned, as would you be, if you were attacked by pasta, and I released him back into the wild......where he waits........under a rock.......for his revenge.........

Our Land Rover Freelander arrived at the same time, in a container surrounded by Lucy's toothpaste.  It was good to get back in a 4X4, and once MOTed, taxed and insured took it down some off road tracks, of which there are plenty, and the baby Landie performed admirably.  In fact, not content with one 4X4, we have since bought a Pick-Up Truck (as you do), a 2005 Nissan Navara, with lots of bling on it, which will arrive on the RMS in December. I'm told that when we leave in 2015, there will be plenty of people wanting to buy it from us, in fact 3 different Saints, when asked what car to import, all, independently said a "Navara".  Lawrence is just looking forward to sitting in the back with his hair blowing in the wind, tongue out, like a dog.

Whilst unloading our container at the Wharf, I was witnessed carrying my cricket bag by a man called Patrick, and he interrogated me as to how good I was and what was my cricketing speciality, my fairly honest answer of "well I'm not really much good at Cricket anymore" must have been interpreted as an act of humility, and subsequently a week later, I received a phone call inviting me to play for St Matthew's Lions cricket club, it turns out Patrick is the club captain.  Apparently, they are all really competitive, so I am currently preparing my apology for how I managed to get out for my second "Diamond Duck" of the year.

Discovered a new flavour of crisps too..... photo below says it all...

My assailant captured by a whisky tumbler



South African, I think....a little concerned as to which gland from the Monkey is used to flavour them!

*Tescos Small Pasta Twists, for those of you, who feel the need for specific details.

Week of the black olive discovery!

(Lucy)
So far I'm really enjoying the pace of my life. Mornings seem to have found their own routine with regards to the order of showers, breakfast, packed lunches and out the door to school. Breakfast cereal is very expensive in comparison to home. 24 Tesco Weetabix sells for around £3.50, but I've seen their cheaper 'value' ones for £1.99 and fingers crossed the boys have got passed the fact they're a slightly different shape!!

I should perhaps have mentioned that the currency is the St Helena pound, which is equivalent to sterling, the coins are the same value and identical in appearance, though some notes are larger in size. Sterling is accepted in all the shops and quite desired by the Saints. We've been told they like to post it to family living & working in the UK, as they have to pay to convert it through the bank. During my first week when I gave over a £20 note to the cashier, she remarked on how crisp it was, and hid it at the bottom of the cash drawer!

Anyway I forgot to mention that Andy and I climbed Jacob's Ladder on Sunday. I believe it's one of the "Seven Wonders of St Helena" as promoted by the tourist board. The ladder was built in 1829 as an inclined plane, which was used to haul manure up from the town and send goods down. The ladder is 600ft high and has 699 steps. It's now used by us tourists and I've just learnt that when climbed certificates can be obtained from the museum, which is near the bottom of it. We decided to use the ladder as free exercise. what else can you do, that's gets you so out of breath so fast, says Andy! It was way steeper than it looked, and I kept stopping to admire the view, but an irrational fear of heights threatened to take over, and I got to the point where I couldn't take my hands off the rails or divert my eyes anywhere other than the next step. I just had to keep going up....but there was no way I was walking down! I will try again, and hopefully I'll get used to the height, steepness and feeling that you're hanging onto the side of a cliff!

Shopping here is far more labour intensive. I've never appreciated how easy it is to be able to go to a supermarket in the UK, find everything you need, and more, and then push it out to your car! Here I find I'm shopping every day. Now this may be because I've nothing else to fill my time (time will tell), or the fact I don't have a car and have to carry everything. We are also starting from scratch, so those everyday items you can always find in the cupboard....we couldn't! There's also no large supermarkets, but a surprising number of smaller shops. Some selling just food, others just food and football boots, and others that you wonder they sell anything from one week to the next. I was over the moon to find a jar of Tesco black olives ( my pasta sauce wasn't the same without them!). Not sure if I should be worried just yet about how truly excited about that find, that I was! Can you imagine the day I found pesto, quinoa & a 6 pack of crisps! Simple things hey? I also remembered the advise that if you find something in a shop, don't assume they'll have it again. I now have several jars of olives & pesto! I also noticed last week that you can find 'new' items on the shelf on Friday, as most Saints get paid weekly....no point stocking the shelves until people have money to spend. I could go on and on about shopping, but shall try not to bore you! But lastly, happened to notice In our local shop, The Victoria, next to The Rose & Crown shop! Are selling out of date pregnancy tests, and a litre of UHT milkshake for 20p (best before Sep 2012).

Andy had an exciting weekend. Firstly walking the donkeys from the Islands 'donkey home'. The remains of a 'before days' era when they were used for work. They are now well cared for and walked every Saturday along the roads to help keep their hooves down. The walk was successful, until two frisky stallions escaped from a field almost a mile away, which took Andy and others their full strength to return and earns him the title of donkey wrestler (though a friend who was there also thought he was a bit of a donkey whisperer). Apparently it's never happened before.

On the Sunday he went tuna fishing for 7 hours. No tuna! Apparently fishermen could normally expect to catch about 100 an hour at this time of year, but for some reason this hasn't happened the last couple of years. Did catch some grouper though. Good first effort at gutting the fish, which tasted nice pan fried. Oh forgot to mention, his boat broke down and they ended up having to call out the lifeboat to tow them back in. Apparently that's never happened before either!

Toby and Lawrence had a trial scuba session in the pool, but on a very cold day! They're looking forward to their wetsuits arriving. Both would like to continue to get their Junior Open Water Diver certificates. I think it involves a theory test, several dives in the pool & in the sea. They can't go deeper than 12 metres (which seems plenty to me), but deep enough to see local wrecks etc.

Toby has also volunteered to be in the local Christmas Panto, Snow White and the seven dwarfs... He doesn't know his part yet, and rehearsals start next week.

Decided we need a garden or outside space so are tentatively beginning a house search....

Our first week on the island

We were met from the wharf and shown to our house and helped to register our driving licences with the police, open our bank accounts and most importantly to register for our phone and Internet package.  We decided to go for the Gold Package, which gives us 5500 MB for £100....not very much as it turns out!

We were shown to our house which is very near the centre of the town.  The good news is that it does have internal doors and toilet, much to everyone's relief.  What it doesn't have is running hot water.  There's an electric shower over the bath, but that's it.  So in order to wash up we have to boil the kettle.  Many of the houses have a solar hot water tank on their roofs which provides them with hot water.  Everything we need is pretty much here, except a garden!  Jamestown is a patchwork of houses & shops, few of which have any outside space.  For now it seems to be a good location as I can walk to the shops, swimming pool and everything else I need whilst we're a one car family.  Apparently people do move around a lot, but you just have to put out the word that you're looking for somewhere and people will approach you if they know of any vacant property.  

The boys both went to school the day after we arrived, and Andy started work the day after.  (For the information of my family & friends, I now find myself the only person in an entire country who calls my husband Charlie!  Therefore, for an easier life I'll now refer to him as Andy, who knows by the end of two years I may even have joined the majority and call him that too....time will tell!)
1st day of school went well, but the second brought some resistance, and I guess the culture shock of arriving on an island where they speak English, yet we can't always understand them must have sunk in!  By the end of the week they were both more settled.  Andy enjoyed his first few days, got his timetable and began  the introductions of the many people he'll be working with in his school and the surrounding primary schools.  He also found some frustrations with the limitations of his lack of "administrator" computer access which has been a bit of a surprise. 

The weather has been amazing.  Sunny, clear skies and in the low 20's everyday....and it's still winter.  The Saints are feeling the cold and wearing far more clothes than we have been.  Saying that, for an island of no more than 10 miles long, its climate varies dramatically.  At Prince Andrew school, which is on Francis Plane, the temperature can be 5 degrees colder, yet only 10 minutes drive.   Took the boys swimming twice after school this week.  Only ones there as it's still too cold for the locals, though the boys just found it warmer than on the boat!  Both boys will be swimming once a week with the schools as soon as it warms up. 

My week was spent unpacking, moving furniture around, putting all the plastics flowers, fibre optic decorations, lace and hand knitted doilies etc to a place of safety, as I'd hate to think the boys would break them!  Some net curtains have stayed for privacy, others hidden behind curtains! 

I also spent time just wandering a round the shops, of which there are more than I expected, just getting familiar with what they sell.  A lot of food appears to come from the UK, or South Africa.  Many items are from Asda, Tesco and Iceland, but not for the pre-printed price.  I bought some frozen sweet corn that had a 99p label, but paid £2.19.  Though generally I've not found the food as expensive as I thought it would be, and so far we've managed to get plenty of fruit and veg, though I have been warned this isn't always the case.  Could just be because the boat is in bringing fresh supplies.  Also found a range of cheese including Brie, Camembert, Feta & Halloumi....we'll see how long that lasts!  I did buy some yogurts, only to find they were nearly two weeks out of date!  Many items are close to their sell by, or just passed it.....which doesn't bode well for the baskets of free condoms many shops seem to have on the counter! 

I've met a few ex pat Mums at the school gates who have been very welcoming.  Julie has been here with her family (husband is the prison warden) for 9 months.  She invited me along to the Salvation Army charity shop and coffee morning on Friday morning, as well as Donny's for after work drinks.  Donny's is on the seafront and seems to be the place many go on a Friday night.  We went at around 5.00pm with the boys which is more family friendly and the place turns into a bar and nightclub later on in the evening.  In fact it was quite a perfect night out for me, a few drinks but still home by nine, with the possibility of dancing in the future!

Julie and her family then took us on a tour of the island on Saturday afternoon, and back to their lovely house for homemade cake.  Seeing their home made ours feel small and very much like a holiday let.  Roll on the 10th October when our container with the car and belongings arrive!

Toby was invited on a dolphin watching trip on Sunday morning, where he saw around 100 dolphins very close to the boat, and a humpback whale and calf in the distance. 

The rest of us attended the family service at the Salvation Army church in Half Tree Hollow.   Some new hymns, some very old and a few choruses on PowerPoint as well.  The brass band was made up by a third of the congregation!  Apparently there are a lot of people 'off island' at the moment!  The praise and worship service next Sunday evening sounds as though it will be worth trying out (guitars and worship band I think), as we try several of the churches until we find our new 'home'!

We've met many people, and met friends we made on the boat on a number of occasions, as well as those who are just here on holiday.  They will leave after eight days which will be strange as now I can pretty much guarantee I'm likely to bump into someone I know when in the high street.  Those who started their adventure at the same time as us seem to have an unspoken bond as we all adjust to life on St. Helena.

Our House from the Road

Toby off to find the dolphins

View from upstairs with the RMS in the bay

Life aboard the RMS St. Helena

So, day one and after our safety briefing which involved a 'practice donning' of life jackets, we were advised to carry a sick bag and ensure there are no loose items in our cabins.  Having then spoken to an English couple who were on there fifth trip abound the RMS, and had never received the above warning, Charlie and I decided to invest £15 into the anti- seasickness injection....apparently in the bum is less painful! 

We enjoyed a three course meal, during which we were advised the the seven metre swell was due to get worse! Both boys began to feel unwell but chickened out of the injection, Lol was prescribed some tablets, Toby's going without.  Going to bed early, hoping we sleep through most of it....or it could be a long night!!

Day Two,

Not a bad night....I just kept waking up feeling as though I was on a slow roller coaster, switching between being pressed down into the bed or feeling as though I was lifting out of it.  The boys and I spent the day playing cards, watching films, playing x-box and getting to know some of the ex-pat community & their children.  Andrew on the other hand tried to get up a few times, but quickly found the only position he felt comfortable in was lying down.  He did manage to make the Captain's Cocktail Party (invites under our cabin door), in his suit.  Apparently you can tell who's there for the first time as they tend to make more effort with their dress, which gradually gets more informal, though most men were still wearing a jacket.

Day Three

The sea is much calmer today, and we spent the morning playing quoits on the deck, and Andrew even managed to stay out of the cabin today.  After lunch the boys watched a film, whilst we had a tour of the bridge.  The small pool was filled today, though only two have been brave enough to have a quick dip. 

 

All the family entered into the deck quoits competition, one by one getting knocked out... except Lucy, who beat all comers and was victorious in the final, duely awarded on the final night, at the wonderful star-lit BBQ, with her prize of .....an Apron (all the men got tankards!)

 

The rest of the journey was relaxing and very special, such a unique, friendly, incredible way to travel.  We spent 5 days without seeing any land, any other vessels, not even any planes or plane trails in the sky! 

 

As we got nearer to the island the excitement among passengers both old and new became noticeable, and most people woke at the crack of dawn to glimpse a first sight of St Helena.  First sight was of the quarry vehicle lights as they work around the clock to construct the new airport.

Waiting to land on the Island

 

 

 

Cape Town

We arrived in Cape Town yesterday morning and were driven to the Portswood Hotel which is in a lovely part of town, just down by the waterfront.  We wanted to, maybe, take a tour up to Table Mountain, but it was covered in a blanket of cloud all day, which Dad assures me the locals do not call a "cloud", but a "cloth"!

We decided to have our last intake of junk food at the food court in the V&A Mall, Toby choose a relatively healthy Sub from Subway, the rest of us got stuck-in to a bucket from KFC!

We check in to the RMS St Helena at 2pm local time today, at will probably be out of communication for the next 5 days at least - time to rest & relax...

Next stop St. Helena...

The RMS St. Helena docked at Jamestown, St. Helena